The Unexpected Traveller

Stuff you don't find in guide books

A photo of a gargoyle on the Town House in Munich

Banning Bohemian gargoyles

Gargoyles are an important architectural feature in Gothic buildings around Europe. These ornate water spouts depict grotesque creatures or human figures. As practical as they were, they seem to have existed from the 14th to the 16th century in Bohemia.
A photo of Icelandic Prime Minister Benediktsson at the 1968 NATO ministerial meeting - Reykjavik, Iceland

The Icelandic anomaly

In geopolitical terms, Iceland is a bit of an anomaly. It gained independence from Denmark, but found itself unable to defend itself. It joined NATO even though it doesn't have a standing army of its own. It's crucial to North Atlantic security but is it that crucial? This article examines Iceland before NATO, and how it, and NATO, evolved together.
A photo of the facade of the church of St James - Valletta, Malta

St James’ Church, Valletta

St James' Church on Valletta's bustling Merchants' street never attracted my eye the same way the other churches in the city do. When I found out my ancestors married there so I thought I'd take a closer look at this historical building.
A photo of the organ and choir at St Clementine's - Prague, Czechia

St Clements in Pořiči

Near Prague's city centre, but not quite close enough, St Clement's church is possibly one of the oldest religious structures in the city. It is more than 1000 years' old.
A photo of Selimiye mosque - Nicosia, TRNC

The lost Cathedral of St Sophia

In occupied Cyprus, across the demilitarised zone in Nicosia, the French gothic cathedral of St Sophia is now Selimiye mosque. The building was at the heart of Cypriot crusader history, with many stories in its past. Today, tourists wonder at something that looks like European architecture is a mosque. This article explains the cathedral history, its significance and the current mosque.
A photo of Place Charles De Gaulle - Bayeux, France

Allied Military Government of Occupied Territories

During World War II, the USA and UK plotted to place France under Allied administration after the war, instead of restoring the French government. Why would they consider this, and how different would the world today be if this had gone through? This article examines the political context and the personalities behind what happened.
A painting of the Judith bridge

The lost Judith bridge

Prague's Charles bridge is the main attraction in this medieval city. Few have heard of its predecessor and fewer have heard about the stories behind it. This article delves into the myths and mythology about the Judith bridge.
A photo of the modern stained-glass windows in Saint-Jean de Montierneuf - Poitiers, France

A church for a cousin

In the 11th century the Duke of Aquitaine built an abbey in exchange for permission to marry a relative of his. It sounds like the ultimate form of privilege but is this fair, and what is the real story behind William's motives? This article explains the context behind this transaction and what the abbey looks like today.
A photo of the Macchi C.200

The bombing of RAF Kalafrana

On 9 May 1942, at the tail end of the Siege of Malta, an unexpected switch in Axis tactics led to loss of life at one of Malta's airfields. This article describes the situation at that point, and the details of the men who lost their lives that day.
volcano erupting at night under starry sky

How the 1602 famine hit Malta and Sicily

We often don't think of how explosive and violent Mother Nature can be. In 1600 a volcano exploded in Peru, affecting life around the planet in many ways. In Malta, it led to a diplomatic spat with Sicily and caused a riot in the south of Malta. This article explains how one led to the other.