The majestic town hall building on San Sebastian’s Atlantic coast seems larger than life. It dates back to La Belle Epoque and its history involves a failed military coup and the effects of World War I.

Spain in the 1920s

After World War I, Spain faced a period of economic and social unrest. The military blamed the government and its weak politicians for all these problems. Part of the military’s disdain for the state of affairs was the way things were changing. They wanted to restore the “way things were” which sounds like good idea. It is something nationalist and partisan politicians have always done, and still do.

General Miguel Primo de Rivera led the coup in September¹ 1923². His idea was to “save” Spain from these useless politicians. He wanted to hand the country over to proper patriots, after a small period of personal rule².

The gambling ban

Primo de Rivera wanted to wipe out corruption and regenerate Spain¹. His methods were anything but noble. He established martial law and established a strict censorship regime¹. Part of this censorship was a matter of controlling what people could or could not do. Primo de Rivera saw gambling as a vice that he needed to get rid of.

In 1923, Primo de Rivera introduced the Gambling Ban which came into effect a year later.

In the Basque Country

In 1887, they built the Gran Casino of San Sebastián³ following the rise of casinos in Spain and other countries. As its architect, Luis Aladrén³ chose an abundance of ornamentation and an imposing sandstone facade which would attract the eye. The result contains influences by La Belle Epoque. With two towers flanking the main entrance, the impression it gives is of a church, albeit one dedicated to avarice, not any deity.

San Sebastián was a prime tourist city for the elite in those days⁴, as befits the summer residence of the royal family. Such a city, together with the kind of people it would attract at different points during the year explains the presence of a grand casino.

Indeed, San Sebastián was where fashion designer Balenciaga first showed off his designs⁵.

In 1923 it had to close its doors³ because of the ban on gambling. Despite its prominent coastal location, the building lay derelict for almost 20 years. In the 1940s, the municipality decided to revive it as a Town Hall³. They renovated it and re-opened it in 1943³, much to the displeasure of the older residents who still associated it with gambling³.

Today

Tourists still flock to the coastal city of San Sebastián, as did I in April 2023. It is a beautiful laid-back place with salty sea air accompanying your every step. The town hall graces the eastern part of La Concha, as they call that part of the coastline. It is a grand, visual, Belle Epoque landmark for anyone bathing, working, or strolling along the wind-swept promenade.

References

1. Miguel Primo de Rivera; Spartacus education; (Retrieved 2023-12-29) [↩][↩][↩]
2. Primo de Rivera; Encyclopedia Britannica; 2023-12-29[↩][↩]
3. Information panels on site; As observed by author; 2023-04-05[↩][↩][↩][↩][↩][↩]
4. Donostia/San Sebastián during the Belle Epoque; San Sebastián Tourism; (Retrieved 2023-12-29) [↩]
5. Journal of Design History, Volume 36, Issue 2, June 2023, Pages 125–140[↩]

Remember: links were correct at time of publication.