The Bridges of Prague
Prague’s lengthy promenades along the river Vltava are one of the most underrated features of the city. Walking along them using the bridges as stepping stones provides you with a great view of the city’s main areas and features.
Start your walk from the Eastern river bank, just below the old Vyšehrad castle (take the tram #17 and stop at Podolska Vodarna. The view of the small yacht club and of one of the many islands that dot the river will keep you company as you walk north towards the first bridge)
Zeleznicni Most (Railway Bridge)
The name of this first bridge translates as The Railway Bridge1. It was reconstructed many times since the original one was built in 18712. It is one of the few railway bridges in Prague that also has a pedestrian walkway on either side of it. Walking so close to trains is quite an experience but the best part of the bridge is the view of the old Vyšehrad castle.
Historical Factoid
When Prague switched to right-hand traffic in 1939, the city wanted to remove the pedestrian walkway. Thankfully, they realised that the walkway should remain as is.
Recommended Route
Walk along the eastern bank below street level for a lovely promenade towards the next bridge.
In summer, cross the bridge and walk along the west bank to have Vysehrad castle and the older part of Prague in your sights. The wide quay on the west bank serves as a location for markets and for open-air cinema too.
Palackeho Most
Named after Czech historian Frantisek Palacky3, this bridge used to be narrower than it is today. It’s main purpose was to serve the growing Smichov district on the west bank. It needed widening by a further 3 metres when it became the first bridge to carry trams across the river. It used to boast the blue-white-red colours of the Czechoslovak flag, but these have faded due to pollution.
Historical Factoid
Albert Einstein used to walk across this bridge to get to his lecturing duties at a local German University. He lived in Smichov between 1911 and 1912.
Recommended Route
Prague castle is clearly visible from this bridge although there are better views closer to the castle. From here, walking along either bank provides you with ample views of late 18th and 19th century architecture. From the west bank, you will also see the famous ‘Dancing House’. In either case, make sure to descend on to the quay and walk beside the water’s edge till the next bridge.
Jiraskuv Most
Construction started on this bridge in 1929. It took 2 years to finish the central part which contained tram lines and a further 2 years to finish. During these 2 years, city planners realised that they didn’t need a tram connection after all so removed the tracks.
Originally, the bridge was going to be further downstream just in front of Myslikova street along Detsky Ostrov (Kids Island). It isn’t clear why this changed. On the left bank, you can still see the unused abutments that would have led to the bridge.
Historical Factoid
They built the bridge4 in the inter-war period at a time when Europe was still considered to be unstable. The pillars of this bridge are seamless pipes that the city can fill with explosives to destroy the bridge in case of an invasion. When the Nazis occupied Prague, they poured concrete into these pipes to prevent the resistance from doing so.
The next bridge is Most Legii, The Bridge of Legions.
Recommended route
Walking along either river bank provides great views of the cityscape. The left bank lets you appreciate the Dancing House and the National Theatre.
Most Legii (The Bridge of Legions)
The Bridge of Legions5 is a granite bridge spanning the Vltava river and linking Shooters’ Island to the mainland. It opened in 1901 when it was built to replace a previous chain bridge. Emperor Franz Joseph I opened this bridge. (The same emperor who was almost killed in Vienna, and his brother commemorated this with a church). The towers on either side of the bridge where originally used as toll booths for traffic.
Historical Factoid
Shooters’ Island is where shooters would practice their skills with bows and arrows in the Middle Ages.
The next bridge is Prague’s famous Charles Bridge.
Recommended Route
If you walk along the west bank, you get a great view of the restored buildings along the Old Town’s river side. You also get to walk through Kampa Island along the river side.
If you walk along the east bank, you can catch glimpses of Kampa Island, the Lesser Town and Prague’s majestic Castle complex.
Karluv Most (Charles Bridge)
Charles Bridge6 is the most famous of Prague’s bridges and is almost constantly jam-packed with pedestrians any time of day or night. It is also part of the coronation route from the Powder Tower to Prague Castle.
Today, it is lined with many statues as well as street artists, musicians and stalls selling handmade trinkets. The view of the castle from the bridge is a perfect postcard image of Prague. Visiting the city without walking along Charles bridge would be akin to visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower.
Curious about the statue of St John of Nepomuk?
Historical Factoid
Charles IV was a believer in numerology and decided to imbue the building of this bridge with the power of numbers. Accordingly, he laid the first stone at 5:31 on the 9 July 1357. Represented numerically, this is a palindrome: 1357 9 7 5:317.
Read my article on his superstitions and the Charles Bridge.
The next bridge is Manes bridge.
Recommended Route
Walk along the East bank to get a view of the castle complex and to enjoy the beauty of the Rudolfinum concert hall just before stepping on to the next bridge.
Walk along the West bank to worm your way through Prague’s diplomatic quarter and to view the Old Town.
Manesuv Most (Manes Bridge)
The city named this one after local painter Joseph Manes8. They built this reinforced concrete bridge just before World War I to replace a previous footbridge that stood here. The bridge is a prime example of Czech cubism.
Historical Factoid
Joseph Manes is the painter who painted the images of the 12 months on the Prague Astronomical Clock.
The next bridge is Čechův Bridge and is further along the camber of the river which now flows West to East.
Walk along the North bank to watch the skyline of the city evolve to a more modern one.
Recommended route
Walk along the South bank with a view of Prague’s Letna park and, if you don’t forget to look back, the castle too.
Čechův Most (Cech’s Bridge)
Named after Czech author Svatopluk Čech9, this is the only Art Deco styled bridge in Prague. It is a national monument for precisely this reason. Prague inaugurated it in 1908. The river is at its shallowest, and narrowest, at this point. If you look closely, you will notice that each arch is different; this is to cater for the slight incline between the two river banks.
Historical Factoid
This was part of a large development programme the city undertook to improve transport connections with the northern districts. Until the turn of the century, the huge park on the north bank ran down to the river’s edge; the tram lines, roads and access points have only been around for just over 100 years.
The next bridge, further East, is Stefanikuv Most.
Recommended route
Walk along the south bank beside the water’s edge to get a view of the grand Letna Park that overlooks the city.
Stefanikuv Most (Stefanik’s Bridge)
Named after the first Czech Minister of War, Milan Rastislav Stefanik10, this is one of the least visually impressive bridges in Prague. It links the city centre to the districts north of the river, especially through the Letna Tunnel.
Historical Factoid
This was originally a chain bridge from 1848. The authorities dismantled that in 1946 so that the reinforced concrete bridge you see today could be built. This was mainly because the original bridge could not withstand the increased traffic demands that modern life required.
The next bridge is another road bridge by the name of Hlavkuv Most
Recommended route
Keep walking along the south bank beside the water’s edge to get a view of Letna Park as it blends into the Holešovice district of Prague.
Hlavkuv Most
The next bridge, Hlavkuv Most11, is named after local philanthropist Joasek Hlavka. This bridge was built in spurts; it first used to link central Prague with Holesovice across the river. It became part of the main highway when the Soviets decided to ignore town planning and build the highway into the city centre.
They demolished a train station in the process.
Historical Factoid
Unlike other Prague bridges, this one was never renamed.
The next bridge, which isn’t that far from Hlavkuv Most, is known simply as the Negrelli Viaduct.
Recommended route
Follow the north bank this time to be able to walk closer to the river. From the south, access to the river is not always permitted due to developments in the area. While the walk take you through parks and countryside, you do miss enjoying the Vltava river.
Negrelliho viadukt (The Negrelli Viaduct)
The Negrelli viaduct12 one of two bridges in Prague which you cannot walk across. Which is a shame.
This is the third longest bridge in Czechia. It doesn’t just span the river but crosses major roads on both river banks. It was built in 1846 at a time when railway connections were incredibly important for the development of any economy. Masarykovo station was the prime station to be used as it was located just outside the walls of the city of Prague. The bridge was envisaged as part of a grand route linking Dresden in Germany to Olomouc in the East of Czechia.
It must have been quite a sight to see more than 3,000 workers scrambling over the bridge as they built it. Today the bridge is not as heavily used as it once was; only a handful of trains an hour use it. The city has recently renovated this bridge – the second oldest in Prague – as part of a new direct train link to the airport.
Historical Factoid
The route was designed and partially constructed by local engineer Jan Perner. He died in an industrial accident before he got to see his plans for this bridge come to life. Alois Negrelli took over the project and gave the bridge his name. Negrelli was an Austrian engineer who is famous for drawing up the initial plans for the Suez canal.
The next bridge is Libensky Most.
Recommended route
Walk along the south bank to experience Karlin, a quieter side of Prague, with the neighbourhood of Holesovice fading in the background.
Libensky Most (Liben Bridge)
Libensky Most13 connects Prague’s Holesovice district with the Liben district, which is where the name comes from. As Prague’s suburbs grew, the bridge connected these two districts in the 1920s to allow for easier movement of people to and from the town. It’s claim to fame is that it is the only Cubist style bridge in the world.
Sadly, this is the most neglected bridge in Prague. It is in dire need of repair and vehicles above a certain tonnage are not even allowed to use it. The local government ran tests recently to see how to rebuild the bridge. The city signed agreements but no supplier has been found due to the intricacies of governmental bureaucracy. One proposal for reconstruction would include bicycle paths along the bridge (Photos and article in Czech)
Historical Factoid
There were numerous efforts to record this bridge as a national monument. The authorities rejected the claim that it should be preserved merely because it is an example of “aesthetic simplicity”. (That’s just another way of saying, “There’s not much to say about it”)
The next bridge is the Holesovicky Zeleznicni Most (Holesovice Railway Bridge)
Recommended route
Walk along the East bank, curving with the river. Part of your walk will be through a few buildings but the path through Thomayerovy Sady (Thomas Park) takes you right past the river.
Walk along the west bank past many new developments with a view of the river and a few of the islands in this part of the river accompanying you. Some of the route is blocked off, so you will have to walk along the buildings instead.
Holesovicky Zeleznicni Most
This is literally “Holesovice Railway Bridge14” since it is a railway bridge in the district of Holesovice. Unlike the first bridge I wrote about, pedestrians cannot walk along this one either which is quite unfortunate. Unusually, it is the only bridge in Prague which is not perpendicular to the river banks.
Historical Factoid
This was the fifth railway bridge to be constructed in Prague when it was built in 1976.
The next bridge is Most Barikadniku, “The Barricade Bridge”
Recommended Route
Since you cannot cross the bridge, continue along the (now northern) riverbank through the pleasantly landscaped gardens. The path opens up into a proper footpath with space for cyclists too.
Most Barikádníků (The Barricade Bridge)
This unusually named bridge has only existed since 1980 and is a main north-south artery for traffic into the city. It replaced an earlier bridge that was built in the 1920s15. It was renamed the Barricade Bridge to commemorate the Prague Uprising of 1945. This was the point when the Czechs started fighting their Nazi occupiers knowing that the Allied forces were approaching. While fighting was vicious, people formed barricades around the city to prevent Nazi reinforcements from making it into Prague.
The next and last bridge is ‘Trojsky Most’ – Troja Bridge.
Recommended Route
Stick to the northern side of the river. You’ll see the old railway sidings across the river if you look closely.
Trojsky Most
This is one of the newest bridges over the river in Prague. It is a bowstring arch bridge and Prague opened it in 2014 to connect the northern district of Troy with the rest of the city. It is a beautiful example of modern engineering and is quite scenic at night when lit up.
Historical Factoid
This bridge finally replaced a temporary bridge that had been in place since 1981!
And so we reach the end of our walk along the river in Prague. From here, you can catch tram #17 again and head back home.
You could continue along the river bank and see the fake ruins of Baba if you’re up for it!
Have you ever walked along the river in Prague? Share your thoughts below!
References
- Beautiful and nameless railway bridge under Vyšehrad; Lukes Zdenek; Lidovky.cz; 2014-02-20[↩]
- Beautiful and nameless railway bridge under Vysehrad; Lukes Zdenek; Lidovky.cz; 2014-02-20[↩]
- Palacky bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-25) [↩]
- Jiráskův most; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Most Legii; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Charles Bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in CZ) [↩]
- Prague, the city and its river; Kateřina Bečková; Karolinum Press 2016; ISBN 978-80-246-3292-6[↩]
- Manes Bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Čechův Bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Stefanik Bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Hlávka Bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Negrelli Viaduct in Karlin; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Liben Bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Prague Holešovice – railway bridge; Encyclopedia of bridges; (Retrieved 2019-06-27) (Article in Czech) [↩]
- Trojský most (most Barikádníků); Encyclopedia of Bridges; (Retrieved 2019-07-02) (Article in Czech) [↩]